Pontal do Maragogi

ALAGOAS (41)
Paradisaical Maragogi Beach – II

Destination Maceió, second travel to the capital of the state of Alagoas.
More photographs of Maragogi Beach, located between Maceió and Recife.

Coconut palm trees flank Maragogi Beach.

Beach walk

While mosto of our fellow travelers were amusing themselves among the coral reefs, Richard and I stayed at Pontal de Maragogi. When it was almost midday, we started our walk to the village of Maragogi, a few kilometers away. This walk has been described in the previous episode. Then we took some rest and had our simple lunch, which consisted of bread, cake and soda. It was about time to make another long beach walk. We walked in northern direction, toward the border between the tiny state of Alagoas and the much larger state of Pernambuco. Of course, we didn’t reach that border: that was still dozens of kilometers away.

A blue sky, azure blue ocean water, a pale white beach…

Walking

The day had a cloudy start, when we were on the bus. However, in the morning, the clouds slowly disappeared. At noon, the sky was blue, with some little clouds. It was warm, we felt the winter sun burning on the white skin. We repeatedly had to use sunburn cream in order not to burn. When we were about to start the walk, the owner of a rental of beach buggies approached me. He suggested to hire such a buggy for 30 reais only. For European tourists, 30 reais (12 euros) is peanuts, but for Brazilians it is quite expensive. Also for me. Besides, I prefer to walk, even for some hours. Like last year, when I joined three friends on their walking trip from Coruripe, along pristine beaches. Coruripe is also located in the state of Alagoas.

Beach sand at Maragogi is clean and very bright, almost white.

Water-bike

We politely refused the generous offer of this buggyman, and started our walk. There was almost no one on this beach. Except some local villagers, children, and even a lonely cyclist. Yes, a cyclist on the beach! He wasn’t cycling on loose beach sand, but over the thin water film, where the sand layer is firmer. A weird experience, to observe this kind of water biking. He skillfully maneuvered his bike through the water and quickly went out of our sight.

WATERbiking!

Fishermen

Many locals along the beaches in Northeast Brazil (and beyond) are fishermen. They make use of big fishing rods, as I have seen those at the beach of Praia do Francês. Or they use big nets, which they throw in a special way. The net spreads over a large surface. Sometimes they use small fishermen boats. You will observe them at any Brazilian beach. Flatboats, so-called jagandas, with or without a sail. Some boat have a seat, as if someone had attached a chair in the middle of such a boat. If fact, it is the fisherman’s seat; he will sit on it, while waiting for hours for his bait. The fishermen have to be very patient. Or they might go a bit further from the shoreline and use their big nets.

A jaganda, typical for this region

Dog

About ninety minutes later, we decided to walk back. The wide beach was already partly covered by the rising water. Fortunately, there was a narrow sand strip to walk on with ease. At a large beach house, close to the shoreline, there was a fair-haired dog. This dog, with long ears and enthusiastically swishing tail, wandered around. Tot our big surprise, this beach dog was following us all the way, at some respectful distance. Just before our arrival at Pontal, it silently disappeared.

Brownish water because of heavy rainfall

Bikini marks

The flatboat had returned from their trip to the coral reefs. Our fellow travelers didn’t want to lose a single second of this sunny and warm day, and decided to stay on the beach. They quickly confiscated the beach mats, that were made of palm leaves. The ladies wanted to gain some more tan. While Dutch women generally try their very best to disguise the bikini marks, the Brazilian ladies try their very best to obtain clear bikini marks. Their family members and friends then would admire these marks, they understand that the ladies had a very sunny holiday time. Europeans might be surprised to notice that also darker tanned and black Brazilians use sunburn cream, even with factor 30 or 50. To prevent a darker tan. Brazilians with a light skin aren’t very eager to become tanned too much. As if they realize that they were born with this light skin, and that they should accept and respect it.

A different approach of surfing, as it seems..

Back

Our bus travel back to our hotels in Maceió as scheduled at four-thirty. Usually, as is common in Brazil, most people would then arrive at the bus park at about five. It was quite surprised that almost everyone was ON TIME. Only a few arrived a few minutes later. This travel group seemed to be quite disciplined. What a contrast with other travel groups, which I had joined in the past! These groups, most of them were students, had the reputation to arrive VERY late. At least half an hour, sometimes one hour, or even hours! The bus trip back to Maceió was without problems, without much traffic. There was only some more traffic near the hotels. It was already dark when we got out of the bus. We quickly went to our rooms, for a refreshing shower. Our stay at Maragogi Beach was unforgettable, but I should return in summer, and take a flatboat trip to the coral reefs.

A faithful dog followed us for some kilometers

Not far from Maragogi Beach, on the way to Maceió.

By Adriano Antoine Robbesom

Travel in Brazil: ALAGOAS (40). Paradisaical Maragogi Beach – I (insiderbrazil.wordpress.com)
Travel in Brazil: ALAGOAS (39). On the Way to Maragogi Beach (insiderbrazil.wordpress.com)
Travel in Brazil: ALAGOAS (38). Filé, Handicraft from Pontal da Barra III (insiderbrazil.wordpress.com)
Travel in Brazil: ALAGOAS (37). Filé, Handicraft from Pontal da Barra II (insiderbrazil.wordpress.com)
Travel in Brazil: ALAGOAS (36). Filé, Handicraft from Pontal da Barra I (insiderbrazil.wordpress.com)
Travel in Brazil: Bus travel FORTALEZA – Belo Horizonte (04). Ferry at the São Francisco River (insiderbrazil.wordpress.com)
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ALAGOAS (40)
Paradisaical Maragogi Beach – I

Destination Maceió, second travel to the capital of the state of Alagoas.
A day at one of the most popular Brazilian beaches, not far from Porto de Galinhas Beach.

Tourist are encouraged to snorkle between coral reefs and exotic fish.

Finally

I had missed three opportunities to visit the much acclaimed Maragogi Beach. Opportunity number four brought me to Maragogi. A luxury coach drove us (I, Richard, tourist guide Vítor, and more 40 tourists from Belo Horizonte) to Pontal do Maragogi. When we arrived there, it was still early in the morning. It was low tide, a perfect opportunity to visit the offshore coral reefs by a flatboat. Most fellow travelers hurried to the pay counters for their tickets. The return trip by a flatboat was 50 reais, about 20 euros. Richard and I didn’t participate. We spend our day with long beach walks. I hope to visit Maragogi during summer, outside the raining season, and when the ocean is azure blue. I also hope to be able to visit the reefs and to snorkel between colorful exotic fish.

Maragogi Beach, early in the morning. The clouds were about to disappear.

Pontal

Richard and I stayed at Pontal do Maragogi, a little village that is located at few kilometers from the village of Maragogi. Pontal do Maragogi is the location from where flatboats depart to the coral reefs. But there is more to do and to see. There was a small swimming pool at a stone’s throw from the ocean. For many Europeans it must be strange to observe a swimming pool near the ocean. Why such a pool very close to the ocean? The answer is simple: not every Brazilian is able to swim (well) and would prefer the safety of a small swimming pool. In addition, it is easier to watch the little children. There were some tables and beach chairs around the pool. At a further distance, on the beach, were concrete tables with palm leaf parasols. There was a small beach mat under the parasol. Sun lovers would take it and spread it on the beach for some sun-frying hours. It is a good habit to fold the mat after use and put it back under the parasol.

A swimming pool at a stone’s throw from the beach.

Village

Pontal do Maragogi had some beach facilities, but lacked other facilities. At few kilometers from Pontal, in Maragogi Village, one may encounter more facilities. We asked Vítor how to get there. He tried to convince us that it was not recommended to go there, because we would have to cross a little river that flows into the ocean. Because of the coming high tide, we wouldn’t be able to cross it again on our way back to Pontal. However, we ignored his well-meant warnings and walked to Maragogi Village. We waded through the river, the water reached until our lower legs. We quickly entered the Village and visited the local bakery and grocer. We bought some bread, a piece of cake and some soda. Now we were no longer dependent upon the high prices of the food offered at the local restaurant in Pontal.

Village of Maragogi, at the other side of the river, which flows into the ocean.

Airport

I took the opportunity to obtain more information of touristic facilities in Maragogi. I was directed to a restaurant, where tourist might encounter arrangements for boat trips. Soon I was welcomed by the owner, who took his time to provide me a lot of useful information. Maragogi already counted a number of hotels and pousadas (hostels); thanks to the increased popularity in recent years, more hotels were being built. It was interesting to notice that a new airport was being constructed at a location between the popular beach locations of Maragogi and Porto de Galinhas (near Recife and Olinda). As a result, both beach resorts will be much easier reached, and not only via a two-lane highway. The airport would provide a touristic boost in this region. Developers already were waiting impatiently to have their new projects realized: more concrete giants that will host luxury apartments and hotels.

Beach tables with a large parasol.
A folded beach mat is located under the parasol.

Back to Pontal

The man offered each of us a bottle of cold water and assured us that we didn’t have to hurry to cross the shallow river. Indeed, the water had risen a bit, but only came until our knees. The wide beach was loosing terrain to the rising ocean water. The beach that was dry on our way to the village, already was covered by a thin layer of salt water. It was delicious to walk barefoot in lukewarm water. When we arrived in Pontal, we sat down in plastic chairs and had our simple lunch bread, cake, and soda.

Flatboats ready for the short trip to the coral reefs.